Q: Have you learned anything new in 2020, other than hand sewing do take more time than estimated,
draping is hard to master but fun and last minute ironing in poor light might give no fun results come better light the day after.
A: Yes, I think I might have learned something new in 2020 I even set up goals for sewing:
Learn draping, accepting draped pattern result, work with optical illusions, make a look like dress from inspirational regency fashion plates, mindfulness in hand sewing, sew neat, overcome cutting anxiety, work with minimum textile waste, cut and sew silk fabric.
I have been trying to grip how to create the illusion of symmetry in a dress by draping and pleating directly on ME the mirror image of my asymmetric body. My competition entry Drottningen is the result of this study.
The dress is a Regency hybrid inspired by the images found on my Jane Austen mood board on Pinterest. It was tempting to use a pre-made regency pattern for the dress but knowing that I would have to alter such a pattern beyond recognition kept me from trying out any commercial pattern. It was learning how to drape and shape something wearable directly on ME that has been the ultimate goal.
Another goal was to become better and faster at hand sewing and to sew neat.
The dress is entirely hand sewn.
Displayed flat as seen in the pictures above and below
the dress may look wonky but on the body it is fits comfortable.
Pleats and back of dress.
Cover for pleats are turned up for better view of pleats
Inside sleeves
As always the materials I use for my projects are thrift store findings. Thrift store fabrics may come with surprises such as folds that will not come out, random sun bleaching and damage from washing. Silk is often brittle due to machine washing and the bias of and centrifugation. I never seem to learn that it is a good thing to have extra fabric for mistakes and not just enough fabric for a very tight lain pattern puzzle. My work desk crash site might give of other vibes than zero waste but I do aim for zero waste when cutting fabric and piecing smaller bits together into bigger pieces. Very few fabric bits are actually thrown out.
When sewing I try to make the seams as invisible as possible.
For the dress Drottningen I used these materials all bought in thrift stores pre Corona.
Shell fabric 3.20 meter yellow dupioni silk and 80cm white for bias tape on neckline. Bodice: table cloth from cotton and linen. Interlining for sleeves and belt 100%-cotton a stiff light Indian curtain. Threads: 100%-cotton for non visual sewing, visual seams are sewn with threads pulled from weft of the silk fabric. Bling: vintage metal sequins, metal thread. For closing the dress a hand made linen quick knit string and a white silk ribbon.
Head shot from the makeshift Castel in my workroom
Photo shoot for competition entry 2021
The Corona snout is sewn from linen and hemp with internal filter in snout extension. I drafted the pattern spring 2020 as it was impossible to get hold of the facial masks I normally wear outdoor against pollen.
The St. Birgitta’s cap I wear in the photo shoot is hand sewn from linen. The pattern is drafted by Cathrin Åhlén and she has a very nice tutorial on her website on how to sew this cap. (Klick on image below to go to site)
